A Taste of Rajasthan — Vivian Cromwell

I have been obsessed with the idea of traveling to India especially Rajasthan: from desert scrubs, holy rivers, painted blue houses, to picturesque lakes. Not to mention the constant visual stimulation for a photographer: colorful saris, red turbans, and the vibrant produce found at various markets.

And for any first-timers, it is really hard to grasp Rajasthan’s sheer size until you try to travel from one city to another.

People often say that Rajasthan captures the true essence of India. The majestic palaces and fortresses, painted cities with tons of foot traffic, and the chaos of automobiles and bicycles. Yet, many traditions have remained without any changes.

Below is my travel journal, through a photographer’s eyes.

A Brief History of Rajasthan

Rajasthan is a state in Northern India. It is the largest Indian state by area and the seventh-largest by population. Rajasthan comprises most of the inhospitable Thar Desert so the weather can get quite hot during the summer, along with the dry wind.

The state was formed in 1949 when Rajputana (the name was adopted by the British Raj for its dependencies in the region) was merged into today’s India. Rajasthan’s capital is Jaipur.

Jodhpur

Mehrangarh Fort is a truly majestic, a UNESCO Heritage Site with sweeping views of the “Blue City” Jodhpur. Built around 1459 by the ruler Rao Jodha, the fort is situated 400 feet above the city.

We arrived at the Fort around 11 am which was bright sunlight. As I am not much of a landscape photographer, I walked around looking for interesting corner scenes where I can incorporate people into the picture.

From the fort, you can see the beautiful blue city Jodhpur. The blue pigment coating in Jodhpur used to be an indication of the Brahmin caste system but nowadays it is mostly symbolic. It is visually stunning but not the easiest place to photograph. Similar to many of the narrow alleyways in other parts of the world, you would really need to either get up early or stay late -- or venture inside a house by kindly asking.

I saw a beautiful blue house, showered in beautiful lights, near an old lady who was washing. I got to sit down with the family for 10 minutes, and it turned out to be one of the iconic blue houses that was featured on NBC a few years ago.

My favorite part of Jodhpur is Sadar Market, which sits at the base of the Fort. Circling around the central clocktower, you will find spice-traders, sari-sellers, produce-pushers. I could spend hours and days here, as the scenes are very different at different times. People are coming and going and there is never a dull moment.

Jojawar and surrounding villages

Jojawar doesn’t make most travelers’ itinerary of Rajasthan, although with only 7000 population, it used to be a pretty strategic location in Northern India and a battleground.

The best base is Rawla Jojawar, which was once a major principality of the Royal house of Marwar. It is right next to the market so after a convenient stroll, you are right at an action-packed scene.

Jojawar is probably my favorite stay during the entire trip. Its small size makes it easier to move around and it just feels more intimate when you interact with locals. Time comes to a still here, as there is not much going on. Elders play poker games under the shades, children nibble on the fruits in the market, while bulls are taking the stroll through the streets, occasionally being petted by families and fed with naan. In Hinduism, while cows are not worshipped, they are considered to be a sacred symbol of life and part of the families.

In Jojawar, I was surprised to have met Hijra. By Wikipedia definition: “In the Indian subcontinent, Hijra[n 1] are eunuchs, intersex people, and transgender people”. My Indian friend told me they are a well-accepted part of Indian society. They often show up at weddings and birthday parties and ask for money in exchange for dancing and their blessings. The two Hijras were eager to let me take their photos.

Around Jojawar, there are many small rural villages that are still considered “untouched Rajasthan”. A nice way to get there is to ride the long narrow-gauge train through the Aravalli Hills.

In the rural villages where few foreigners set foot, we were warmly welcomed by the local children. It gives me fond memories to be surrounded by them, I wish I brought more pens to give away. It was a splendid afternoon with my camera.